We started with another wonderful breakfast from Jane, and Tanya drove us. We went through Phalawaborwa again, as we did when we worked the buffalo at the mine site, but continued on to enter the public gate. We drove quite a way into the park before we spotted anything other than a single squirrel. The sun was warm, the road was good, and we were all a bit dozey. Students especially wanted to see a big cat and some crocodiles, so we were looking specifically for those.
We first saw a single elephant standing against an old water tank. Not long after, we came upon quite a large number crossing the road right in front of us. There were several babies in the group. One of the students hung a bit out of the window to try to get a better photo, and suddenly 3 large elephants turned and began flapping their ears and moving toward us quite fast. We backed the van up and were able to avoid a charge, and moved around a corner where we could observe a bit more safely.
Our first elephant sighting
Traffic jam in Kruger. Note the little guy in the middle of the road!
Another baby!
And another small one
Three of these larger elephants turned and threatened our van; we backed off pretty quickly!
After that, we were no longer feeling drowsy! We soon spotted more elephants, including a huge bull.
This huge bull elephant was just next to the road!
I could watch elephants all day!
More elephants!
Next, we came upon a car stopped alongside the road, and pulled up to see what they were watching. It turned out to be a litter of hyena pups playing in the shade just outside their den. They didn't stay out very long, but were certainly cute!
One of the pups looks directly at me (center of photo)
They were just about the size of 10-week old husky pups.
Next we saw a man watching a rock pile with a huge professional camera; he told us we had missed a leopard by about 3 minutes, and it had walked off around the pile and out of sight. We were pretty disappointed, but continued our drive. Guess what?! Suddenly I realized that we had passed the rump of an enormous bull elephant! He was so close to the road that if I had had my arm out the window, I would have slapped him on the bum! We backed up, and he blinked, turned around, showed off his plumbing, and got comfy for a nap facing us.
This guy is turning around to face us in the road.
He's gorgeous!
So he steps up next to this little tree, slips his right tusk around the trunk, and rests his head against the tree.
Next thing I know, he has flopped his trunk over his left tusk and closed his eyes!
Even his upper lip is drooping as he dozes about 10 feet from us! He is resting his right forefoot as well.
We continued on and came to a river area. Up close, a hippo climbed out of the water, and in the distance, elephants were crossing.
Middle left, just above the white bird, there is a hippo in the water.
A closer look reveals crocodiles lying on the first set of rocks, and in the water just off the shore middle left, the brown round hump is a dead Cape Buffalo being eaten by crocs!
The hippo emerges from the water (center) as the crocs continue feasting.
Hippo is all the way out of the water. Elephants continue crossing in the background.
The elephants appeared to be from 3 separate groups. They met mid-river and greeted one another by touching, then wrapping their trunks around one another. A large single elephant remained near the shore and watched until all the others had finished greeting, then walked to the middle and met the last remaining member of the opposite group. Meanwhile, water bucks were grazing all around the water.
Elephant groups greeting one another
Panoramic of the water
Our next sighting, unfortunately, happened so fast I couldn't get a photo. An enormous male leopard went walking by quite close by. He just sauntered along with the tip of his tail curled up. We caught several more glimpses of him through the trees, but never got another full look. It is rare to see such a large leopard so close.
Next we began seeing zebra (the e is short here: zeb'-rah). And more and more and more. Hundreds and thousands of them, scattered in groups and herds, sprinkled over the park like seasoning!
zebra
and more and more and more zebra!
We were also super lucky to spot a group of 4 ground hornbills. These are highly endangered, and extremely rare. They are black with red beaks, and males present their chosen female with a choice rock in his beak. If she accepts, they mate for life.
2 ground hornbills.
We watched a large troupe of baboons cross the road in front of us. The babies were adorable, and one was even young enough to be clinging to his mother's back. They are considered a pest here, as they are numerous and able to get into most buildings and structures.
As we drove out, we had to hurry a bit. The park gates close at 5:30, and it is illegal to continue driving on the roads after that time. But as we hustled in that direction, we saw zebra, wildebeest, baboons, birds (I spotted the most gorgeous lilac breasted roller.), thousands of impala, a klipspringer, and more elephants. And we made it out the gate at 5:29!
It was a long day in the van, but so exciting that everyone got to see what they most wished for. It is amazing to see these animals free in their natural habitats, unperturbed by our presence. So many young animals also made me hopeful for the future.
I am still thinking a great deal about what it is about this place that seems to call me so deeply. I know that part of it is the ability to be wholly present in the moment: I don't have the usual million things going on in my mind here. All I have to do is this one single thing. And I feel and remember every second. I am thinking about ways to simplify and streamline my life when I get home, knowing that this will help. But that isn't all. I have no connection to this place, yet I feel it. Some of that is that we have met so many really great people who have made us feel at home. Some of it is spending our days outdoors in perfect weather. Part of it may be the rich, round sweet sound of the languages here, as lovely on the tongue as Jane's braai. But something about this place, land, speaks to my soul, and I dont know why. Maybe the why is unimportant. Maybe the important part is just that it does, and that I am here, and feeling as though I cannot possibly drink in enough.
I don't know what it is either, but Sammi is feeling the same pull. She told me she can see herself moving and working there when she finishes college. Thank you for this amazing opportunity!
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